Setenil de las Bodegas, Spain

By | December 15, 2022

Setenil de las Bodegas is strikingly different from other pueblos blancos, the “white villages” of Andalusia, not only in the historicity of the name (more on that later), but also in location. While most of the region’s settlements are located on the top of the hills, Setenil de las Bodegas, on the contrary, is hidden among the ancient caves of the Trejo Valley. Rows of snow-white houses look especially bright against the background of gray rocks and plants climbing them. Despite the fact that the boulders hang painfully ominously, no cases of their collapse have been recorded.

How to get to Setenil de las Bodegas

According to clothesbliss, Setenil de las Bodegas is located 100 km from Malaga. Aeroflot flies to the capital of the province of the same name every day, and on Friday, Saturday and Sunday – twice a day. You can get from the airport to the city by taxi for 20 EUR, bus or train, travel time 10-15 minutes.

There is a bus station next to the railway station. From there, 2 flights depart daily for Setenil: at 14:00 and 16:15. The first, stopping at almost all the villages on its way, takes 3.5 hours, the second – only 1.5. A ticket in both cases costs 12 EUR.


Since there is no opportunity to build large buildings in the city, local hotels are very tiny – literally 5-7 rooms. The cost of a night in a double room rarely exceeds 60 EUR (including breakfast). And this is in the “top”, two-star hotel. But regardless of the class of hotels, each offers a stunning view of the rocks. You can also rent housing from local residents – a separate house with 4 bedrooms will cost 50-70 EUR per day, a studio apartment – 40-50 EUR.

Cuisine and restaurants of Setenil de las Bodegas

Local culinary masterpieces are, firstly, pork products. Several producers of chorizo ​​and other sausages operate in the town and the surrounding area. You can taste them in farm shops and restaurants.

With high quality local products and breathtaking scenery, the restaurants under the cliffs are among the best in the province of Malaga.

Setenil is located in Andalusia, which means you should definitely try “gazpacho” (cold tomato soup), its relative “ahoblanco” – mashed bread, almonds, garlic and olive oil, “gachas” – a thick gravy made from flour and spices with offal and “puchero” – a stew with chickpeas or rice with different vegetables and meat.

Prices in eateries are absolutely not touristy: a dinner for 30 EUR with wine for two is the norm. A quick snack in Setenil style – tapas for 1.50-5 EUR (a set of snacks plus a glass of wine). Locals know a lot about sweets. The main “stars” are marshmallows and pastries.


The modern city began its history in 1484, although it is known for sure that people appeared here 25 thousand years ago. Unfortunately, no monuments from that time have been preserved here. Of the historical sights, only the ruins of the Moorish castle (Calle Villa, 32), the Encarnacion Cathedral (Calle Villa, 25) and the town hall (Calle Villa, 25) stand out. All of them are located next to each other – on top of the highest hill in the city.

Scientists believe that the name “Setenil” is associated with military events and comes from the Latin phrase septem nihil, “seven times without result.” That is how many times the Romans unsuccessfully tried to conquer the city. The prefix de las Bodegas appeared in the Middle Ages, when winemaking began to develop in the region.

In general, Setenil is one big attraction in itself. Even houses that do not have any architectural value are impressive and arouse interest. It’s all about the design. The roof is replaced by multi-ton rock cornices, the edges of which, in addition to the houses themselves, are also covered by sidewalks.

The city has two main streets: Cuevas del Sol and Cuevas de Sombra. The first name translates as “Sun Caves” – the houses on it are on the sunny side. The second, respectively, “Caves in the shade” – due to the constant twilight from the rocks hanging overhead – a nice bonus for those who find it hard to endure the heat.

Setenil de las Bodegas, Spain