A Traditionnelle Dress Watch While …

Then there was demand for more personal touches I thought today publish a little review of my recent korena’s bachelorette party!.

I had since some time been looking for a really nice dress watch while from any of the top manufacturers. Rose gold, light painting and a fairly moderate size was the priority. The “usual suspects” in the category Patek Calatrava 5196, a. Lange & Söhne 1815 or Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle.

Patek Philippe Calatrava REF. 5196R is superb in its classical aesthetics and the sender offers not only high quality but also a very good resale value. In addition to it’s service cost for the manual 215 PS work very affordable when it can be done inhouse in such as Rob Earnshaw or stay B in Stockholm. Unfortunately felt REF. 5196 despite their 37 mm surprisingly large, with its long and above all straight fringes which are not legends played with my wrists. Another reason that felt a little bit sad is that 215 PS are both small in relation to the case and hidden by a solid back. Something I think is a pity on a watch for over 170 000 SEK.

  1. Lange & Söhne 1815 was the next track. A manufacturer who is undoubtedly purely qualitative in the same level as the Swiss treenheten (many claim they are just a bit sharper t). The advantage of Lange is that there is minimal in finish between their watches for $ 200 and the 2 0000 0000 kr. Obviously, the latter technically superior with insane complications but the finish is already sky-high in the entry-level segment.
    The problem with Lange is instead that the bells are relatively large in its shape and aesthetics. 1815 which attracted most available in 40 mm and 38.5 mm but worn slightly larger due to the big Board. The finish is amazing even in the painting but that many Langefantaster sadly admits is the resale value is not the best. With a new price of about 185 000 SEK and a service fee of around 15 000 SEK is an expensive watch to buy but also to ownership. When the work is made entirely of German raw silver, it is extremely sensitive to how it handled and make you more or less confined to a factory service.

Last but not least, we come to Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Small Seconds. The world’s oldest watch manufacturer with an unbroken history stretching over 260 years. Just like the other two on the list is quality, technology and finish in world class. The model I fell for their manual dress watch while Traditionnelle Small Seconds. A classic aesthetic, but with a little bit more aggressive moves than the other two. The size of 38 mm is perfect. Not too big for my thinner wrists yet enough to not disappear completely for a more casual attire. The man chosen to show it up in my opinion great 4400-work (which you also find in eg American 1921) through a glass rear makes the clock than nicer. The fact is that the cost of a factory service is in the context of the 4400 very affordable at about 550 € + 150 € for polishing/cleaning in addition to shipping charges. This means that the model does not need to be more expensive to own than a Rolex, Omega, or IWC.

Some brief information about the model

Name-Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Small Seconds
Reference-82172/000R-9382
Size-38 mm
Thickness-7.8 mm
Boettmaterial-18 k 5N pink gold
List price-approximately 21 ‘ 000 €

Clockwork
Caliber-4400 AS
Uppvridning-Manual
Thickness-2.8 m
frequency-4 Hz/28.800 v.p. h
Reserv-about 65h
Certification-Genéva Seal

Enough with the technical information and let us look at the watch itself.

I was looking at buying new but accidentally showed exactly the version I was looking up in perfect condition from 2010 with box, papers and an extra unused original band from Vacheron.

How far it will be a keeper for life or may pass on remains to be seen. I know for me that one should never say never, and there is always something else that attracts. Regardless, it is one of the most impressive dressklockor I tested and a watch I wear to the costume as a t-shirt and jeans.

For a little more information about the model, I recommend a look at this video from Hodinkee.

 

Gallery

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